The Orkhon is the trip that converts people who thought Mongolia was only desert. A wide river, summer herders, and Orkhon Khürkhree — a wide basalt fall, not a jungle plunge. Stay with a family, not a 40-ger resort. Ride in the afternoon, help with nothing unless asked, drink the tea. Tövkhön Khiid, a hill monastery with a cave, is the offbeat half-day from here if your knees work.

When and how long

Mid-June to mid-September while ger camps are open. September grass turns gold and nights drop near freezing. · Two nights. One night is a long drive for a short walk.

Cost

Family ger with three meals ₹3,200–₹5,900 pp. Horse day ₹1,060–₹1,860 (₮40,000–70,000). Park/valley fees small, ₹80–₹270.

Area

South of Kharkhorin on rough tracks. Combine with Tsenkher hot springs on the way in or out.

Crowd and who

Low except a cluster of camps near the waterfall in July. Anyone who can sleep on a hard bed and walk a rocky path.